From scratch

The red dress

On Monday I decided to check out the Notting Hill Carnival for the third time since I’ve been a Londoner. For the first time I actually had some fun. 🙂 I wore a dress that I made at the very beginning of summer, but have had no chance to wear it until now.

The Secret Costumier - The red dress4

It’s pretty much a replica of a dress by Reformation that I spotted a few months ago. I didn’t have a pattern, so I just had to work it out while sewing it, but I think it does the job.

Image source: Reformation Carson dress

There is only one seam at the back, the top bit is lined with the same fabric, and the edges are bound with a bias binding, also made of the red knit. Luckily you can’t really see that the lining is slightly smaller, so the fabric is kind of gathering around the armholes. It was supposed to be a very simple sew, but binding knits is not my specialty, to put it mildly…

The Secret Costumier - The red dress1

The dress turned out to be a really comfortable wear, even cycling was fine in it. The only reason why it won’t be my go to summer dress is the combination of being skin-tight AND backless, but if you’ve seen photos of the Carnival, you can imagine that it was just the right choice for the occasion. 😉

The Secret Costumier - The red dress2

 

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Me-Made-May 2016, Ready & waiting

Me-Made-May 2016: The summary

The first week of June is already gone. I also can’t wait to show you all the new me-mades, but I kind of want to do this right, and figure out what I take away from a month of only wearing clothes made by my own two hands…

I wore 19 me-made garments during the 27 days I managed to keep up with the challenge:

  • 7 dresses;
  • 3 skirts;
  • 3 trousers;
  • 6 tops;
  • and 3 bags (1, 2, 3).

I decided to take a look at what I enjoyed wearing, as well as to look at the thoughts I had after last year’s Me-Made-May.

Dresses

In 2015 I wrote: “I think I have enough dresses at the moment, although I tend to wear them a lot, so I will allow myself to make more if I feel like it. I might also give that jumpsuit idea a go this year.”

Since 2015: I have made a total of 5 new dresses since this time last year, no jumpsuits still. Unfortunately none of those 5 dresses are really suitable for everyday wear, which is why they haven’t really made an appearance during MMMay.

Now I need: Everyday, comfortable dresses that I can wear in all (London) weather conditions.

Skirts

In 2015 I wrote: “I think I wouldn’t mind having a few pencil skirts that allow me to cycle in them, but to be honest I am not in urgent need of any new skirts.”

Since 2015: I made one new skirt that I don’t particularly like, but I’m cool with that since I didn’t think I needed any more anyway…

Now I need: I really enjoyed wearing the lime green A-line skirt this year, and I would like to make a few similar ones of lighter materials for summer.

Trousers

In 2015 I needed: “More of the comfy summery kind. It’s a shame that I am so scared of making trousers, as they are the best option for summer cycling and not that hard to make at all.”

Since 2015: I have not made any new trousers. I have also decided to get rid of the ill-fitting black one that I made using an experimental, self-drafted pattern.

Now I need: More trousers!!! I am taking a pattern cutting course at Morley College again, now learning about the trousers block, so hopefully I will be able to improve on this soon.

Tops

In 2015 I needed: “More tops, obviously. Sleeveless ones for summer, a few more crop tops, another shirt, the perfect white T, and maybe some woven basic tops. I just need more tops. Simple and wearable ones!”

Since 2015: I have made two camisoles that I quite like in theory, but they aren’t the obvious choice to wear in most occasions. I have also just finished a shirt which I am very pleased with.

Now I need: More tops! I probably need to go back to the Wardrobe Architect project and finish it, before I start making things that don’t work with the rest of the wardrobe. I have a few ideas already though, and after the trials and tribulations of making my second shirt, I think I enjoyed the process just as much as I enjoy wearing it, so I’m up for making more!


Last year the aim was to not only wear one me-made item/day, but to wear them head-to-toe, and I am pretty happy about managing to do it. The plan now, is to do a deep clean in my wardrobe, ideally by the end of summer, and get rid of all the clothes that I don’t look forward to wearing for some reason.

If I manage to do that and streamline my collection of clothes so that I only have comfortable, good looking and versatile garments that I enjoy wearing, then I will definitely wear only me-mades in May next year again… 😉

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Me-Made-May 2016, Ready & waiting

Me-Made-May 2016: Week 4

This is going to be a super quick post, because airport WiFi is not my friend… Me-Made-May is over for me. I’m on holiday, and planning outfits that will work for a number of activities AND will fit into one backpack for 10 days does not have to be made any harder. 🙂

However, I have made an unusually high number of me-mades for this trip (one is in the making as I type this 😉 ), so I feel no guilt about cutting the challenge short. It was interesting, I think it has helped me set new goals about my sewing and wardrobe plans, but I’m going to give myself some time to come up with some conclusion. In the meantime, here is what I wore for my last 5 days:

TheSecretCostumier - MeMadeMayDay23

Day 23

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Day  24

TheSecretCostumier - MeMadeMayDay25 Day 25

  • Skirt: Self-drafted leather skirt made out of 2 leather coats
  • Top: Modified RTW top

TheSecretCostumier - MeMadeMayDay26 Day 26

TheSecretCostumier - MeMadeMayDay27 Day 27 Dress: The old faithful wrap dress no 2. It’s a slightly improved Burdastyle pattern.

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Me-Made-May 2016, Ready & waiting

Me-Made-May: Week 2

I’m not the kind of person who stands in front of the wardrobe in the morning for ages, trying to figure out what to wear. I usually find a few pieces that I really enjoy wearing and stick with them for as long as the season allows me.

However, having to choose from a very different set of clothes this month makes me totally clueless some mornings, and whenever the weather gets unexpectedly cold and rainy, like this past week, or when I need to dress for a special occasion (going out, travelling, etc), I find myself really challenged to get dressed without being absurdly late for work.

I have spent the weekend in Paris with my sister, where the weather was supposed to be 15 °C degrees, mostly cloudy with some sunshine. Otherwise known as that time you are unsure whether you’ll be boiling after walking a few minutes if you put on too many layers, or you’ll wish you took your winter coat. I am really embracing spring right now and feel like wearing bright colours all the time, so I decided to keep it simple and wear my favourite red trousers for the whole weekend. They are comfy, surprisingly versatile and I managed to dress them up for a night out too. So apart from wearing the aforementioned red pants for what feels like eternity, this is what I wore last week.

TheSecretCostumier - MeMadeMayDay8

Day 8

  • Top: Self drafted bodysuit
  • Leggings: Self drafted, favourite/would-not-wear-it-outside-the house leggings 🙂

TheSecretCostumier - MeMadeMayDay9

Day 9

  • Dress: Backless dress, modified Burdastyle pattern
  • Top: Cut-off RTW top (this is the only piece I am allowing myself to wear that I have not made from scratch)

TheSecretCostumier - MeMadeMayDay10

Day 10

  • Skirt: Infinity dress (made of cotton), worn as a skirt
  • Shirt: Burdastyle pattern, oversized shirt

TheSecretCostumier - MeMadeMayDay11

Day 11

  • Top: same as above
  • Skirt: same as above

We had a parents’ evening that day, the weather was really unpredictable, so I chose to go with pieces that worked earlier that week.

TheSecretCostumier - MeMadeMayDay12

Day 12

  • Dress: Backless dress, modified Burdastyle pattern, almost the same as the blue above
  • Kimono: Vintage Japanese, got ripped on the side, then handsewn back that same day…

TheSecretCostumier - MeMadeMayDay13

Day 13

  • Dress: Wrap dress, Burdastyle pattern-slightly modified
  • Jumper: Ready-to-wear

My favourite outfit of the week! 🙂

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Day 14

  • Top: (not visible) camisole+ RTW sweater
  • Trousers: Modified Burdastyle pattern

Day 15

  • Top: Camisole-self drafted/copied from RTW + RTW jumper
  • Trousers: As above

 

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From scratch, Me-Made-May 2016

Me-Made-May 2016: Week 1

Like I might have mentioned earlier, I was not going to take part in this year’s Me-Made-May, as I wasn’t keen on the idea to wear 1 me-made piece/day again, like I did for the previous 2 years. I also didn’t think I had enough garments to ONLY wear me-mades for a whole month. But then I didn’t want to feel left out either. 🙂

I’ve spent a few days in Budapest recently and while waiting for the plane back home, I started listing the things I’ve made and realized I could actually pull it off with a bit of creativity. I knew I had clothes in my wardrobe that I hardly ever wear, so the objective had to be to not only wear as many handmade pieces as I can, but also to be honest with myself and give away those I don’t enjoy wearing at the end of the month.

This first week was really challenging, as we practically skipped spring and went straight into summer. Since I wouldn’t wear most of my skirts without black tights on, my options became even more limited. I pretty much struggled through the week, but as I was taking photos yesterday I just realized it doesn’t have to be as hard as I thought.

It turns out most of my clothes actually work well together, some of the dresses can easily be turned into skirts or can be worn as a top. I managed to come up with 21 different combinations so far using 15 pieces, and this is just the number I cared to take pictures of…

So here is what I wore this week:

TheSecretCostumier - MeMadeMayDay1-1

Day 1

  • Red trousers: heavily modified Burdastyle pattern(s)
  • Nude bodysuit: Self-drafted/copied from an existing one
  • Bag: Le Barcelona bag, made using scrap leather pieces (current favourite!)

3

Day 4

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Day 5

TheSecretCostumier - MeMadeMayDay4

Day 6

TheSecretCostumier - MeMadeMayDay6

Day 7

  • Trousers: Modified Burdastyle pattern(s)
  • Top: Camisole

 

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Bags. Handmade!, From scratch

The Barcelona Bag

Please welcome the Barcelona Bag. This is the last in my unintentional travel (and other) bag series. 🙂

The Barcelona Bag

TheSecretCostumier - The Barcelona Bag3

As you know already, I’ve spent a few days in the Spanish capital recently. I knew I would be taking one of my other backpacks as my carry on luggage, but last time I was sight-seeing in Marseille, I realized that carrying a shoulder bag is just a pain in the (quite literally) back. So I came up with the idea of using up the leftover leather from Morocco that I used for that Berlin Bag, and making a small backpack, that can be turned into a regular bucket bag.

TheSecretCostumier - The Barcelona Bag5

I did not take pictures of it acting like a bucket bag, so you will have to take my word for it, but on the picture below you can kind of see how it works. There are two clamps at the bottom of the bag that click onto the rings on the one long strap to turn it into a backpack.

TheSecretCostumier - The Barcelona Bag

TheSecretCostumier - The Barcelona Bag1

I have lined it with the same material I used for the Bangkok Bag and the camera cover, and put in a zippered pocket which turned out beautifully this time.

TheSecretCostumier - The Barcelona Bag4

I used double cap rivets for the first time, and while it was pretty easy to insert them, 2 fell out in the middle of the trip. If anyone knows a surefire way of inserting them, please do let me know, as I’m not sure if it was me, or if they were too small to start with, or simply the quality is not what I was after…

TheSecretCostumier - The Barcelona Bag6

The design of the bag was kind of random, as I just tried to use as much of the leather I had as possible. I had to buy some leather scraps from one of my favorite fabric shops in Brixton for £5/piece. The front pocket is made of one of those pieces and was left raw on the edges. Unfortunately it did not stay closed, so I had to superglue a magnetic closure thing on it. It’s not exactly how I imagined, but it works. All in all, I’m in looove with the bag! 🙂

TheSecretCostumier - The Barcelona Bag7

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TheSecretCostumier - Tailoring

From scratch, Refash.

Sneak peak #9

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From scratch

This is not a quilt…yet!

This is a potholder. I know you know, I just wanted to set the record straight for those who think I’m busy making  a quilted bedcover. I have no idea where the obsession came from this time, but I am crazy about quilts right now, so I decided to make one using up my scrap fabrics. This will actually be my third time trying patchwork(ing?), but last time I used very different types of fabrics, and it was way more spontaneous. This time I gathered inspiration first…

…and tutorials for the cuttingpiecing, pressing, quilting and binding, and soon realized that it is a lot of work!!!! I did the maths for a quilt that would cover my double bed and started cutting, when I found out that I’d made a little mistake while I was trying to cut corners, and ended up with a bunch of half square triangles that were too small for the original project. And that’s how the potholder was born. I think it’s the perfect project for experienced sewists to take a break from dressmaking, as well as for beginners to make something that provides loads of opportunities:

  • for customization,
  • to practice straight stitching,
  • cutting accurately,
  • top stitching,
  • feeling what it’s like to work with relatively thin and bulky layers,
  • and to make something useful yet complicated enough to make you want to buy yourself a drink and celebrate your newly discovered talent!

TheSecretCostumier - Patchwork potholder front

TheSecretCostumier - Patchwork potholder back

TheSecretCostumier - Patchwork potholder detail

TheSecretCostumier - Patchwork potholder detail

TheSecretCostumier - Patchwork potholder detail

So go ahead guys, make a potholder today!

Image sources for the quilts: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.

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TheSecretCostumier - Wardrobe Architect
From scratch, Ready & waiting, Wardrobe Architect

Week 1: Making style more personal

Dear friends, curious old classmates, fellow pedestrians, if you ever wondered why I dress the way I dress, this post might help you find out! I am waaaaay behind the Wardrobe Architect project, but it’s better late than never, right? So here it goes! (Please excuse my excessive use of brackets (I do apologise (for the personal photo album too.).).)

How has your personal history informed the way you dress? When did your tastes crystallize? Have they changed over the years, and why?

As you can see I had killer style when I was in kindergarten. 🙂 I also remember being pretty happy in the clothes my parents picked out for me and my sister, (my dad was the fashionista in the family back in the days…). As a teenager, I guess I just wanted to feel comfortable in my clothes and with my body and not stand out from the crowd even more (I am not the typical Hungarian looking girl, you see). It basically meant covering up as much of my body as possible, in fact that photo of the blue sundress is a rare one. It was taken in Athens and it was extremely hot and that was probably the only time I worn something like that since I was a child. When I moved to London I experienced what’s it like not to be bothered with what other people might think about me for the first time in my life, so I started experimenting with my looks. In the past 2 years I think I’ve managed to be more conscious about wearing the pieces I feel best in, although I sometimes feel like I dress a little old for my age.

How does your philosophy, spirituality, or religion affect your aesthetics and buying habits? Or, what aspects of those things would you like to see reflected?

Although I find many “green” movements rather questionable, I feel very strongly against wasting anything. I would like to explore more ways to reuse existing resources and reducing the clutter around me. Having a wardrobe that expands only by adding handmade pieces to it, would be another step for me in moving away from the way too fast high street fashion. When I discovered the magic of buying vintage/charity shop clothing, the most appealing factor was not only the uniqueness of the pieces, but also the fact that you are saving a piece of history by giving it new life.

How has your cultural background shaped the way you look? How did the aesthetics and values you grew up with affect your tastes as you got older?

I’m half Hungarian and half Nigerian. Although I appreciate my fashionable “heritage”, the well known traditional Hungarian embroidery, and I love the African print fabrics and headwraps worn all over Nigeria, none of these  have inspired me in choosing what to wear in my everyday life…yet! I do find the so called “etno” look desirable on others, but I don’t feel like myself when I occasionally wear an afro during the summer, when I’m too lazy to straighten my hair.

Image sources:  from top left: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9

How are you influenced by the people around you, including friends, family, and other communities you’re involved in?

I have never dressed according to any subcultural “dress code”, since I never belonged to any such groups. I kind of hate to admit it, but the biggest influence on my style is my sister, who has a flawless style and always inspires me to at least try to be a tad bit more elegant and classy. Although while she likes to dress appropriately to every occasion, I prefer to wear whatever I feel good in.

How do your day to day activities influence your choices?

I stubbornly cycle  e v e r y w h e r e. Come rain or shine, I’ll go by bike. I would like to think it’s not mere stubbornness though, or my hatred of public transport, but a statement I make everyday about not being lazy and doing something no one around me does, something I’ve never thought I could do. Long story short, I need clothes to do all that cycling in. And I don’t mean head to toe lycra obviously, but normal clothes that allow me to move my legs, heavy enough to retain my modesty in the London wind, and won’t be destroyed by a little rain every now and  then.

TheSecretCostumier - Wardrobe Architect - Activity

Does the place you live inform the way you dress? How does climate factor in?

I am a Londoner now, and even though everybody hates this weather, I kind of love it. I come from a place with four seasons, two rainy ones, one extremely hot and one extremely cold, so I’m happy with the moderate climate and I’ve made peace with the sometimes constant rain too (it really is just water!). This means you can wear pretty much whatever you want, and I bet that’s why London is one of the fashion capitals.

In what ways does body image affect your choices in clothing? What clothes make you feel good about the body you live in? What clothes make you feel uncomfortable or alienated from your body?

Since I was a teenager I’ve had rather sensitive skin which is actually why I got interested in fashion. I had to find creative ways to hide the problematic areas and show whatever was left. I also turned from alarmingly skinny to healthy, to bigger… and now back to curvy (I guess), but to be honest, my weight has never played as big a part in my wardrobe planning as my skin, even though I wouldn’t mind having leaner legs…and arms, etc. Because of this, I feel most comfortable in flouncy skirts and black tights, high neck- and waistlines, short jackets and I’ve learned to love anything backless. I don’t really like wearing jeans or trousers, anything low-cut and short skirts or dresses that hide my waist, which happens to be the slimmest part of my body.

In the next task I will be making a moodboard based on the the words I associate with the clothes I wear and the way they make me feel, but before I bore the hell out of whoever reads this (thank you guys! ;)), I’ll show you my brand new little pleather skirt (that’s not a typo!).

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Refash.

Inspiration #2: Wingback chair refashion

I found this wingback chair on a rainy Friday night, dumped on the street, a couple of months ago. It looked rather old (according to the paper attached to it inside, it was made 54 years ago!), it was wet, it smelled, and was crying out to be reupholstered. I know very little about upholstery, but it seemed to have good bones under the dirty fabric, so I asked a friend to help me drag it home.

vintage 50's wingback chair

Then it stood on the balcony for another few weeks before I decided it was time to be brave, and spent 6 long hours to strip all the fabric off. That was 6 very long hours of pulling nails out with the help of a screwdriver and with the constant fear of poking my eyes out. Not even at this point did I know how I wanted it to look, but I knew 3 things:

  • I wanted to use piping on it;
  • I had some beautiful Dutch wax fabric from Togo on hand;
  • and the fact that I madly love anything velvet.

I had a harder time finding instructions and inspiration on Pinterest and online in general, but I stumbled upon a few sources that still make me wish I could start the chair redo all over again. Co-Lab’s boards, this one or, well,  my own dedicated board is worth checking out for some good ideas, but here are the ones that really got me thinking:

Image sources: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11,12.

Inspired by these images, I came up with the idea of upholstering it with grey velvet (or mustard yellow. Or soft pink…or any colour, really) and using hand printed burlap (that was an over-ambitious idea, I know now) on the back of it. Then I went food shopping on a lazy Saturday afternoon to Peckham, and the next thing I knew was that I was walking out with THE fabric in my hand. Obviously, prior to the walking bit, there was a 45-50 minute period when I tried to describe what the selected 4 rolls of fabrics looked like to my sister, as well as taking rubbish photos of it to help the case move along. wingback chair refashionedWith her gentle nod and my strong desire to make something sophisticated, I went with the (little did I know) trickiest fabric. I was very close to giving it all up half way through, but I didn’t. So stay tuned, I’m almost there!

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